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Transcript

Working with Bleach

  • Pre-lightening is a process of removing natural pigments from the hair.
  • Pre-lighteners have a high alkaline content, during processing it penetrates the cuticle and the hair structure is softened and the cuticle scales are opened.
  • When the cuticles are opened the bleach can penetrate easily.
  • The same as permanent colour, the lightening chemical process involves the addition of oxygen

Egwyddorion Cyn-YsgleuwyrPrinciples of Pre-lightening

  • All natural hair colour is made up of varying proportions of black, brown, red and yellow colour pigments found within the cortex of the hair.
  • There are two main types of hair pigment:
  • Eumelanin – brown and black hair pigments
  • Pheomelanin – red and yellow hair pigments
  • When the cuticles are opened the bleach can penetrate easily.
  • Inside the cortex the bleaching process releases oxygen and combines with the hairs natural colour pigments.
  • This forms a new colour pigment that is colourless called Oxy-Melanin
  • Every head of hair has common factors relating to natural colour.
  • The melanin black/brown pigments are larger and easier to remove from the hair structure,
  • These are lifted out quickly leaving the Pheomelanin red/yellow pigments
  • Pheomelanin pigments are much smaller and are a lot more difficult to remove and often it takes a long time to get past this yellow stage
  • The darker the natural colour pigment is more intense and the lightening process can prove to be difficult
  • Pheomelanin pigments are much smaller and are a lot more difficult to remove and often it takes a long time to get past this yellow stage
  • The darker the natural colour pigment is more intense and the lightening process can prove to be difficult

Colourless oxymelanin

Natural colour pigment

  • Melanin (black and brown pigments) are oxidised more easily than pheomelanin (red and yellow),
  • therefore the oxidisation process takes place in three stages:
  • The black and brown pigments are oxidised.
  • The red pigment is oxidised.
  • The yellow pigment is oxidised
  • By watching the colour changes that occur during the bleaching process, the sequence of oxidation may be easily seen.

Bleach bases and their corresponding depths

  • The bleaching process releases oxygen and combines with the hairs natural colour pigments. This forms a new colour pigment that is colourless, What is this called?
  • Over processing of bleach could result in what?
  • What dangers are associated with the inhalation of powder bleach/lightener?
  • What are the potential consequences of not following manufacturers instructions during mixing and development of bleach?
  • . Pheomelanin colour pigments are?
  • If the hair contains a large amount of Eumelanin colour pigments and the client would like to achieve light blonde colour, What would your action be?
  • What precautions must be taken when using powder and other lighteners ?
  • If a problem occurred when colouring/lightening hair that you could not resolve, what should your action be?
  • What client factors have an impact on colouring/lightening services?